A quick note about the planning stage of these trips. It seems to be an ever evolving procedure. The first trip we ever made, coincidentally it was into the Broughton area also, the planning consisted of how much gear could we pack into these tiny boats and what would we eat for five days, considering meat is out of the question after day two. There was not much thought, if any, given to weather, tides, or currents. We’ve learned over the years now to read the charts and understand what most of the symbols indicate (not all, but like I said this is an ever evolving learning curve), to predict the tides and currents for the areas we plan to visit, and to look into some of the local history so the area tends to mean a little more to us as we explore it. As for the weather, we’ve learned to plan for the worst and hope for the best and so far it has worked well for us.
The actual plan for this trip was to start with a water taxi ride with all our boats and gear out to Island 66 in the Fox Group, in the northern section of the archipelago. We would then spend the next seven days making our way back, camping at Island 66, Owl Island, Mound Island, and Kaikash Creek on Johnstone Strait. This would allow us to see more of the area as we would not have to paddle out and back from Telegraph Cove, thus covering some of the same area twice. The only area of concern we could see would be transiting Blackney Passage due to tide rips and poor sightlines to see the cruise ships which frequent this area. We would have to ensure we crossed the sound during slack current and monitor the vhf for ship information as we got close. So, enough of the preamble and onto the trip.
Sunday morning we beat the sun up. We had stayed the previous night at Ray and Marg’s so we could all get an early start up island to meet the two pm reservation we had with the water taxi at Telegraph Cove. On the road around eight, a quick stop in Campbell River for gas and coffee and we were back on the highway. Just north of Campbell River we came across what you might call ‘local color’. An older gent standing beside the highway, dressed down a little but clean looking, strumming away on a banjo. No later than ten am on a Sunday morning and just one of those sights that makes you do a double take and wonder what that fella’s story could be. We continued on towards Telegraph Cove, a little concerned about the weather as it would tease us for a bit with bright skies and then dash our hopes with a quick shower. We knew going in that this week looked like it may get wet but we were hoping to at least get our first camp set up while it was still dry. We arrived in scenic TC shortly after noon. Visiting Telegraph Cove is worth the trip in itself. All the brightly colored buildings built on the boardwalk and the houses up on the hillside, you try to picture what it was like in its heyday.
We had lots of time before the taxi so we grabbed a quick bite of lunch at the pub before unloading the trucks. We had never taken a water taxi before so we weren’t sure how it would work. All we were told was to leave the kayaks empty. When preparing for this trip we had packed all our gear into drybags, like we do normally, only this time we packed the drybags into larger stuff sacks, just so it would be easier to handle on the taxi. Much fewer pieces to handle. We had all the boats and gear ready on the wharf shortly after one.
The bright yellow ‘Rainbow Chaser’ taxi showed up at two pm on the money, we loaded the boats and gear aboard and we were on our way within fifteen minutes. The taxi took us past the west point of Hanson Island where we saw a Minke whale, past the NW point of Swanson Island where we saw a sea lion colony, out past White Cliff Islets where a Humpback was spotted and then up Retreat Passage towards the Fox Group. I know we also saw porpoises on this ride but I can’t remember where. Less than two hours into our trip and we’ve already seen most of what we were hoping for. If we’d spotted a Killer Whale we could have turned around and gone home. We got to Island 66 and found there wasn’t any place to unload the boat as the tide was so high and there wasn’t much, if any, of a beach to be seen. Our taxi captain suggested going a little farther north to Insect Island where he knew there was a good beach and lots of camping area so we ran with that idea and were thankful for it.
Insect Island turned out to be a beautiful spot to camp. There was lots of space for even a large group, a perfect kitchen area and gorgeous views to the adjoining islands. The weather was holding up for us so we all got busy setting up our tents and tarps. We are also in the habit nowadays of throwing a tarp up over our tent if there is even the slightest possibility of rain. We’ve found packing up a wet tent and having to set it up again is not a totally enjoyable experience, so we do whatever we can to keep our home dry. With camp set up and the kitchen tarp rigged you would think we could relax but it was our turn first for a group supper. When I say ‘our’ turn it really means Lila’s turn. Over the years we’ve each taken on certain responsibilities during the trips and leave different aspects to the other person. Meal planning and cooking (and most of the cleaning if we’re being truthful here) have fallen to Lila, thankfully. Since it was the first night out we were able to enjoy a chicken stir fry for supper. After eating there was the requisite campfire as the sun went down over Eden Island and then it was off to bed. Early mornings, paddling, work around camp, it’s embarrassing how early we drift off to bed. You catch people yawning and looking at their watches only to realize it’s eight o’clock in the evening.
Monday. Today we planned to paddle out towards Queen Charlotte Strait and explore a number of islands along its open waters. We headed out in a light rain and made our way into, appropriately enough, Misty Passage, between Tracey and Eden Islands. I don’t think we were two kilometres into our paddle when our progress slowed to a crawl. We were in a bay off Eden Island that was filled with sea life that was too good to just pass by. Huge blue sun stars clung to the rocks just below the water’s surface. We had never seen them this large before. Another new creature to us was the anemones that consisted of a thick tube type body attached to the rocks with a bright white cauliflower type protrusion coming from the other end. After half an hour or so we continued on our way and the view started to open up as we approached the small islets between us and the strait.
The rain had let up and we were enjoying the flat waters and the reflections it provided as a small pod of porpoises silently made their way past us. Everyone makes these trips for their own reasons but for myself the wildlife is a big part of it and being able to sit back and watch the porpoises ranks right up there near the top.
We paddled west along the southern shore of Eden Island, exploring the small islets, and then turned south for a short break in a small bay on Crib Island. Back in the boats, we kept on around the western tip of Crib and started making our way back past Kate Island and around the bottom of Angular. The scenery through the area is spectacular. The attraction is hard to explain because in its simplest form it is all just rock, trees, and water on every trip we make. The things that make it different all the time, and makes it all worthwhile, is how the sun will spotlight one area and not another, how the fog will mute all the colors and sounds, and how the rain can make all the colors richer. The day to day changes in the weather and water conditions can allow you to paddle the same area twice and believe it is completely new each time. Even a view of seemingly nothing, where all you can see is the line of the horizon separating water and sky is captivating in its vastness.
We paddled up into Monday Anchorage, between Tracey and Mars Islands towards the narrow gap we were hoping was passable this afternoon. The charts indicated it would be dry at low tide but fine at higher water levels.
The charts are very accurate but you just never know until you’ve been to the area, it takes some getting used to, trusting the tools you use. There was no problem getting through the pass, and looking deep into the water it was hard to believe it would be dry even at a very low tide. Once through the passage we headed north, back towards the small, white midden in the distance, which was the beach at our Insect Island camp.
It was late afternoon by the time we were back at camp but as it was not our turn (meaning Lila’s turn) to cook we were able to relax for a bit. I usually bring a fishing rod along on these trips so I grabbed it now and tried casting from shore as there were some fish jumping. As the world’s unluckiest fisherman it is a good thing we don’t plan our meals around my daily catch, and today was no different than most. I still enjoy throwing a line out when I get a chance though. After a big beef stew supper we spent a little time getting ready for tomorrow as we were planning to move our camp to Owl Island. A little more time around the campfire and we all called it a night.
Up bright and early Tuesday morning to take down camp and get on the water. Quick breakfasts on moving days, so Lila threw our breakfast together while I packed up the tent and gear. The rain was still holding off and the water was dead calm as we loaded the boats. The only negative to this Insect Island camp was the access to the water at low tide. It made packing the gear down to the boats a little time consuming and you really had to watch where you stepped as some of the rock was pretty slick. Since we taxied all the gear out here we could only hope it would fit in the boats because if it didn’t fit it would have to be left behind. We got it all in with a little room left to spare, not much but we didn’t have to leave anything on the beach.
We paddled south for a few kilometres and then headed south west through Arrow Passage, between Mars and Bonwick Islands. When the light is just right and the water as calm as it was this day the reflections are just like mirror images. It’s almost a shame to paddle and ruin the likenesses on the water. After a couple hours we headed into a bay on Bonwick Island where, for the first time on this trip, we came across signs of bears. There are a lot of berry bushes in this area that the bears obviously like to feed on. Having stretched our legs and eaten a small snack we continued on to the western shores of Bonwick and the multitude of islets off its coast.
This is a spectacular place to visit. I could spend a whole day poking in and out of these small islands, it never seems to get boring. Part of it is the feeling that you just never know what could be around the next corner. What we’ve noticed hasn’t been around the next corner on this trip so far is either eagles or seals. Usually you see so many eagles and seals you don’t even mention them to those you’re travelling with. This was our third day out and we had yet to see either one.
We noticed the wind had picked up as we headed south through this group of small islands and when we got to Spring Passage it was starting to blow pretty hard. Where we were entering the passage, between Sedge and High Islands, the water was starting to get a little rough, due to a combination of the easterly wind and the water depth decreasing as it came closer to the islands. We decided it probably wouldn’t be safe to cross at this point so we found a little bay on the eastern Sedge Island and stopped there to talk about our options.
We were originally looking to cross Spring Passage and head towards Wolf Island, a distance of just over two kilometres. We listened to the vhf and found that the winds were expected to increase in the evening to about fifty knots, definitely not paddling conditions we wanted to be in. We decided to check out a camp site that was supposed to be located on the north side of the larger Sedge Island. Once we paddled through the passage separating the Sedges we were able to see Spring Passage again from another angle. The water didn’t look quite as bad here and there were some larger islets offering protection a little over one kilometre away. We talked about the crossing again and eventually decided to go for it. There were lots of whitecaps and the odd wave breaking over our kayaks as we paddled across with the wind and waves hitting us squarely on our port side. Once we reached the protection of the islets we talked about the crossing a bit and not once did anyone feel threatened by it, maybe challenged at some points, but no one felt that they were in a situation beyond their abilities. There’s a fine line between expanding your skills by tackling more difficult situations and putting yourself in peril by overestimating your skill level. Knock on wood, so far we’ve been able to accomplish the former, without suffering the effects of the latter.
Once in the islets the wind waves were gone but the rain started up. We rounded the western tip of Cedar Island and made our way to the campsite on its southern shore. Ray and I checked the spot out and decided we should paddle the 600 metres to the Owl Island site and see what it was like. Once seeing the Owl campsite our decision was made. A nice kitchen area and lots of level spots for the tents made it a sure bet. As it was still raining we set about making camp right away. We got the kitchen tarp up first, then while Ray and I got the tents and remaining tarps set up Lila and Marg pooled their resources and made lunch. As crazy as it may sound, that lunch, comprised of canned beans and canned chilli mixed together, with toasted foccacia bread, was probably the best meal on the trip. When you’re tired and wet, with work left to do, it can be the simple, comfort foods that taste the best.
The rain continued on and off for the rest of the afternoon and evening as we explored the area around camp. There is a short trail that takes you to a west facing bay that provided us with a beautiful sunset the next evening. We came across evidence of at least one bear being in the area, along the trail. I put up one more tarp this evening, an old blue one I was carrying, to use as an area to dry out gear. It’s hard to keep anything completely dry in this weather and environment but every little bit helps. Since we had eaten our lunch at around three o’clock this afternoon we didn’t have supper until after dark, shortly after which we all drifted off to bed. The wind did pick up during the night and we fell asleep listening to it howl through the camp.
Wednesday was a planned down day as we called it. Nowhere to go, nothing to do, and all day to do it in. The rain was still coming down, not in a downpour but enough so that you would get pretty wet, pretty quickly, if you left the shelter of your tent or the kitchen tarp. We just enjoyed the relaxing morning with a pancake breakfast and wandered around the site and back and forth to the bay on the opposite side of the island. Shortly after noon Lila, Marg and I decided to take a paddle out to the White Cliff Islets. Ray decided to relax around camp as we headed out.
Once in the kayaks the rain becomes less bothersome than it is at camp as you are dressed for the water anyways. The cloud cover was thick and the rain really starting to come down as we passed Fire Island and started out to the White Cliff Islets. This sort of weather is really pretty enjoyable to paddle in, the colors are all muted and sound does not carry as far, so power boats for one don’t seem as intrusive. When you can’t see anything past the closest islets you can pretend there isn’t anything else, or anyone else, around for miles. The feeling of isolation is most noticeable at times like this.
Ray had a welcoming fire going when we got back and we just puttered around the rest of the afternoon. As the sun started to go down we discovered we were going to be treated to a beautiful sunset from the west facing bay. Just walking the fifty metres to that bay seemed to put you in a completely different world. It would be bright and warm over there, while it was dark and damp at our camp. After supper, and a dessert of pineapple upside down cake Marg whipped up, we spent a little time getting organized as we were on the move again the next day.
If this evening’s sunset was any indication, we were going to be in for a nicer day tomorrow than we had been having this week. We finished burning the firewood we had gathered as we wrapped up the night. We were looking forward to the trip tomorrow as we were hoping to visit an island we had failed to get to previously, when we were in the area three years ago.
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